Crystal Vision 

In July, this rig goes in the sun about 1:00 for the duration. The rating is more like 11a, with the crux being a very scary .10+ (maybe .11-) pitch near the top- "spicy" on the topo. Be ready to climb above shitty stoppers, but good holds do come, trust me. The 11a slab above is nicely protected with bolts. Why not the .10+ arete? Don't know. Even the 5.8 slab had a bolt. Anyway, good climbing over all. The raps/gully descent take a couple hours, but no poison ivy.

Also, better directions to the raps: Go almost to the overlook. As you round a group of headhigh boulders, take the clearly worn right hand trail (about 20 meters from the actual overlook). The trail is fairly worn and brings you along the rim and down a little to a gully that descend left. The raps are down here, but go past it first and up on the rock outcrop. Look down about 10 meters to see the chains just to make sure you found it.

I'd just like to add that even though this route has possibly the worst approach in the canyon, it is WAY worth doing. If the approach was better, more folks did the route, and a bolt was added on the sketch-arete pitch this thing would be just as good as the scenic cruise (NOT), but with a much better position in the canyon.

FYI we brought the #5 and #6 big cams and used them a bunch.

I thought the approach was pretty okay--6 double rope rappels and then down-gully slummin' with no poison ivy. Locate the first rap anchor the day before-- it's a bit obscure. The route itself is alright. It'll clean up a bit with more ascents, notably the chimney pitch. Still a bit of that shady-side dirtiness to it. Kind of a worker's crack climb, although the cruxes up high are both face climbing. The 5.10+ arete is definitely sketch. Get on it early in the day and it'll be a good route for warm weather. I read the FA account, and the comparison with Scenic Cruise had my expectations set on high. So was a bit disappointed but would still recommend it to someone who is looking for something new.

If Atlantis gets 3.5 stars, this gets 1.5. A good but not great route. A few comments:

We searched for 2 hours for the rappel. It is not in the obvious gully. It faces the wall right of the Painted Wall--arete area??. Probably 200 ft right of the painted wall overlook. It starts about 125 ft down from the rim, and is easy to follow. The gully slummin' below is actually pleasant.
The route starts next to some huge boulders leaning against the cliff. These are the higher boulders, there is another further down.

Pitch one is poor but compelling-kind of like biscuits and gravy for breakfast. Pitch three is 3rd class traversing left about 25 meters to the obvious feature by boulders-the finger crack is hidden. Pitch 4 is fantastic, while pitch 5 felt like a meat locker, and offered the same degrees of enjoyment. Pitch 6 is burly fun, while 7 is best forgotten. After 7, you get first class Black rambling.

After the rest of the route, I too found pitch 9 needlessly dangerous. Big clean lob possibility off hard climbing is a good thing--keeps out the riff-raff. This big lob might send you into the rubble between the towers. A bolt on the arete, at the level of the belayer, would be nice. There is also a slot 10 ft up the arete where my buddie's weird Czech nut fit and set--luckily I didn't test it.

We brought 4,5, and 6 new Camalots. We only found the 6 necessary--pitch 12. There is a lot of low angle OW in other areas.

Don't arrive at the top of 12 in the dark. You may bivy.

Chris Kalous' directions to the raps are why we found them. This is a "worth doing again route" IMO.