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Crystal Vision 

5.11+ R

   

FA: Josh Borof, etc.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 12 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade IV
Views: 273 page views

Submitted By: Max Kendall on Jun 5, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Topo.


Description 

Some say the Crystal Vision pitch defines the route, but it is not the crux. The pitch below crystal pitch is spicy!


Location 

Descend the SOFB Raps. Walk out the painted wall overlook, head right down ramps and chimney to top of the raps.


Protection 

Full Black Canyon rack.



Add Photo Photos of Crystal Vision
Photo of route.

Photo of route.

Pitch 4 Max Kendall leads.

Pitch 4 Max Kendall leads.

Crystal vision pitch J. Catto leads.

Crystal vision pitch J. Catto leads.


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By chris Kalous
Jul 8, 2008

In July, this rig goes in the sun about 1:00 for the duration. The rating is more like 11a, with the crux being a very scary .10+ (maybe .11-) pitch near the top- "spicy" on the topo. Be ready to climb above shitty stoppers, but good holds do come, trust me. The 11a slab above is nicely protected with bolts. Why not the .10+ arete? Don't know. Even the 5.8 slab had a bolt. Anyway, good climbing over all. The raps/gully descent take a couple hours, but no poison ivy.

Also, better directions to the raps: Go almost to the overlook. As you round a group of headhigh boulders, take the clearly worn right hand trail (about 20 meters from the actual overlook). The trail is fairly worn and brings you along the rim and down a little to a gully that descend left. The raps are down here, but go past it first and up on the rock outcrop. Look down about 10 meters to see the chains just to make sure you found it.

By aaron voreis
From: Gunnison, CO
Aug 17, 2008
rating: 5.11 R

I'd just like to add that even though this route has possibly the worst approach in the canyon, it is WAY worth doing. If the approach was better, more folks did the route, and a bolt was added on the sketch-arete pitch this thing would be just as good as the scenic cruise, but with a much better position in the canyon.

FYI we brought the #5 and #6 big cams and used them a bunch.