Blackjack is the very prominent left-facing dihedral on the south rim. The feature is very striking and the climbing is pretty good too. Go down the Chillumstone Gully and head skier's left or climber's right shortly after the rappel. Third and fourth-class ledges reach the base of the route (best to scope this from the north rim first).
P1: 5.9 cracks go up and left to gain the base of the huge dihedral.
P2: Climb the dihedral at 5.8?? I can't really remember.
P3: Climb a good stretch of 5.8 offwidth that is somewhat protectable (Nick placed the #4 too early on and ran it out considerably afterwards though he did get some smaller gear).
P4: Climb up to the roof slot. Turn it on the left at easy 5.10 and head up and left to a hanging gear belay. Resist the temptation to stretch it out to the ledge higher up for there isn't really a ledge and no gear for an anchor.
P5: Climb up and left to gain vertical dirt and stretch rope to a belay of your choice.
P6: From here you follow a few hundred feet of ledges and short 5th-class sections along a ridge to reach the rim.
By aaron voreis From: Gunnison, CO Dec 3, 2003 rating: 5.9+
FYI the Chilliumstone Gully is mis-marked in the BC Guidebook. It is actually the next gully to the west from the one marked. Also, don't take the grade III of this route for granted. The bushwack out at the end is brutal and a bit dangerous especially if wet. I would recommend climbing the extra pitches instead of the gully.
Cams below a 0.4 (yellow Alien) are not needed. Bring a few small/medium hexes and and extra, hand-sized piece.
Between Devil's Overlook and North Chasm is correct but the trail does start directly in front of the mentioned 20mph sign. The descriptions of the route are somewhat confusing because there are not any fixed or obvious belays in the middle pitches. There are many semi-hanging options and the route could be broken up in many different ways. I think the guidebook's topo is fairly good. There is currently an "X" marked death block about 40 feet above the roof slot and just below the grassy ledges and walk-off. Its not going come of if you touch it but might if you yarded on it or stood on it. This makes the ending a little harder and sketchier than it first appears.
If you have never done this route and you attempt the extra pitches exit option in the dark, be warned you are in for a epic! Nice linkup w/ Black Shadow Arete.
By Sevve Stember From: St. Paul, MN Oct 7, 2007 rating: 5.9+
As of October 5th 2007 there was a fixed line on the rappel which appeared to have been placed there by the NPS. After the rappel you must go left towards the ledge system. Be warned that this ledge system is sketchy and getting on top of it requires a 4th/5th class move that has death fall potential. Rope up if at all concerned.
The approach and scramble out takes as long or longer than the route so plan on atleast 6 hours. The climbing is good!
South Rim Routes
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