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The Checkerboard Wall
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Checkerboard Wall 
King Me 
Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral, The 
Monkey and the Engineer 
Ouiji Board 

Ouiji Board 

5.12b

   

FA: Andy Donson Jonny Copp
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Views: 493 page views

Submitted By: Jay Brown on Sep 16, 2007


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Description 

A finger crack and face route with a little dirt on it, this route would clean up fine if more people climbed it. Awesome crux (protected with bolts)pitch!
Peg groove/seam to sport face moves.

P1- 5.8-5.9 face towards an old sling and then a short crux. 5.11c finger section to a ledge belay. 150'.

P2- continue up fingers at .11a to wander around 2 big bushes, right of the first, left of the second, all on flakier cracks to hanging belay on flake. 160'.

P3- "Bat roof" 5.11a climb "underjams" towards the right in a perfect hands roof then pull around side to fingers and left to ledge belay under peg stripe. 110'.

P4- send peg heading up right with thin gear to fixed nut under roof step, continue to follow crux bolted area to fixed blade then slightly runout but fun 5.9 or 5.10 face to right-facing flake with bolted belay above it, with small stance. 180'!

P5- continue to the large ledge of the Checkerboard Wall topouts via 5.9+ face climbing. 40'.


Location 

Take cruise raps to the checkerboard wall. Starts 10 feet before "Checkerboard Wall" route. Climb out of the bushes there towards a finger crack out a bulge above.


Protection 

1-set RPs, 1-set Lowe balls, 3-sets TCUs, 1-set stoppers, double cams.