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Rosy Arete/Tourist Route 

5.9 R

   

FA: Kor/Culp
Type: Trad
Length:  Grade IV
Views: 676 page views

Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 15, 2001


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Not such a good night sleep


Description 

This is a great Black Canyon adventure with route finding being the crux. As the new book suggests it is very worth while to scope the line from the balanced rock overlook. Head down the easy Long Draw gully till about 100m above the river(40min.). There are four established routes on a buttress to the right of a large Chimney system which can be seen from the base of the route. It is likley that you will cross sections of different routes as there are many options once on the climb. The start is tricky to be sure of but just stay right of the chimney and look for the best rock. There are some lines that look very improbable but are quite nice and have much better rock than the more obvious weaknesses. There are some spicy run outs on this buttress but the climbing stays pretty easy. Most of the route is face climbing! If wavering between going right or left once on route, I found it always better to stay to the right on steeper but cleaner rock. The route is between 11 and 14 pitches. When it looks like you are at a dead end at the end of the route sneak around the left side of a steep and blank face with a tree to a nice low angle corner/crack system. Scramble up a bushy gully to reach the rim. I encountered one or two suspect belay anchors and veered off route into some 5.9X climbing on horrible rock but the intended route gene


Protection 

Standard Black rack with a some rps and extra runners



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By Bryson Slothower
Jan 30, 2002

cut off again. That should say that the intended route "generaly stays on solid rock and is very enjoyable.".....

By Hill
Mar 14, 2002

Fun climbing with 1500 high step moves! A bit cold at night if you underestimate this route.

By Rob Dillon
From: Short Circuit
Jun 10, 2005

Not wanting to mislead my buddy RMc into thinking the Black was all fun & games on his first visit, I decided we should check out this interesting little route. Excellent choice, m'sieur! A full plate of BC delight: loose, wandering line; vague indications of previous (downward) passage; missiles whizzing by my head on his first 200' exploration through teetering piles of choss; and, happily, the occasional beautiful section of clean, elegant, and exposed rock. The following day's trip up Comic Relief was tedious by comparison.

Look for a beautiful brown varnished corner out by the arete on about p.4-5, ~150' after the [second] large terrace- this was probably the coolest pitch on the route.

We started up pretty far right/downhill, way past the landmark chimney, beneath a broad, obtuse corner/ gully system, which is where we encountered most of the flying choss. Don't go this way if you can help it. After we escaped this everything cleaned up and was basically groovy.

By Jeff Bevan
Jun 25, 2009

Did this rte for the second time. I came away with a less favorable reaction this time than I did last time. Possibly because I'm sure we weren't on the same line as tyhe first time I did it. My notes from the first excursion suggest staying generally right when choices need to be made. This time I let myself be pulled left on the 3rd pitch further than I think is needed and I found more dubious ground. The final section of this rte is great if you stay way right and actually turn the corner right out over the river for the final full pitch before easier ground up top. You'll know you are in the right place if you have to scramble to the top of a large flake leaning against the wall and step out over the abyss to the right to start the last pitch. 14 pitches put us on the rim. 9 1/2 hours climbing time 1 1/2 hour down the gully (no PI, yea).