Climber: Jason Horning Photographer: Jason Nelson ...
Description
About the Climb: This climb was found as a result of missing the cruise gully on the approach. The first 350 ft. of climbing follow primarily handcracks up good rock. The rest of the climb (250 ft.) is on not quite as good rock, but nothing horrible. It would be an Alright introduction to climbing in the Black as it is only 4 pitches (60m rope) and only 5.9 with good gear. You top out on a spire overlooking the chasm view wall and the checkerboard wall. Instead of traversing on the second pitch, we wanted to push the line through the big roof above, but the rock was very flaky and bad.
Directions: Head down Grizzly creek gully (next gully to the east of Cruise Gully) to the first rock band. Make a 90 ft. rappel. Hike a little further till gully terminates into steep slabs. The climb starts above a large chockstone (20 ft.?) just above the slabs.
Climb: P1 - (180 ft. 5.9)From chockstone, short handcrack to a ledge, follow lower of 2 ramps right until it is possible to gain the upper ramp, head back left to reach handcrack (watch ropedrag). Follow handcrack to ledge above pegmatite band. P2 - (175 ft. 5.9)traverse right along crack for 40 ft. to a ledge. Follow crack system just above the ledge to a short right facing dihedral and to another big ledge. P3 - (125ft. 5.9)In the back of the corner is a pink colored right facing dihedral. Follow this and up left to gain a ledge. P4 - (110ft. 5.8) climb steps and traverse left along ledges to reach the cliff top.
Descend: hike toward canyon rim and back to camp
Protection
Standard rack up to a #3 camalot. Double hand sizes will be useful for longer pitches.
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