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Gunnison

Submitted By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
Latitude: 38.5448  Longitude: -106.9280 
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Early cast of Gunnison characters that put up some...


Description 

Gunnison is a city of about 5000 people and is located at the bottom of several valleys. Due to its location, cold air in all the valleys settles into Gunnison at night, making it one of the coldest places in Colorado if not the States.

In this area is a great variety of climbing opportunities ranging from short cragging to some of the longest rock routes in the state. In fact, the only grade VI routes in Colorado are located here.

West of the town of Gunnison is the The Black Canyon of Guninson or "The Black" as it is affectionately referred to, and is Colorado's big wall climbing destination. Land here is a combination of private, state, BLM, and federal land. Take this into consideration if you go exploring, since some locals do not take kindly to uninvited crossing of their property. Tires have been known to be slashed, cars ticketed, and climbers escorted off private land.

"The Black" is as deep as 2700 ft at its greatest depth. There are no other canyon in the country that has the same depth relative to its width as The Black and and hence it is located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park. The visitor guide has helpful information if you are visiting it for the first time.


Getting There 

Gunnison is located on US 50 in the SW part of the state. From the east, you can drive from US 285 to US 50 over Monarch Pass (11,000ft) and drop down into the town of Gunnison. Directions from there depend upon the exact area. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies W of Gunnison along US 50 for the South Rim and off CO Hwy 92 for the North Rim. From the Denver Metro area it is 4 plus hours to Gunnison. From the West, you can access US 50 from Montrose via US 50 from the N and US 550 (the Million Dollar Hwy) from the S. From Montrose, it is an hour plus to Gunnison.

Map of the area



Featured Route For Gunnison
crux pitch, photo taken by mark flis

Checkerboard Wall 5.10  CO : Gunnison : The Checkerboard Wall
This route is awesome! Perfect stone, great position, spicy, thoughtful climbing, and, most of all, a ridiculously improbable looking line make for an incredible, albeit shorter, afternoon in the Black. Start: Head down the Cruise Gully. Shortly after the second rappel, the gully opens up briefly and an obvious climber's trail splits off left. Follow this for a short while (minor bushwhacking and scrambling) until it turns sharply left up to ...[more]


Add Photo Photos of Gunnison
These guys were hard core!         John Pearson, Jim Newberry and Scotty Gilbert. Back in the day. Photo from the Jim Newberry collection.

These guys were hard core! John Pearson, J...

Scotty Gilbert, Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry. Courtesy of the Jim Newberry collection.

Scotty Gilbert, Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry. Co...

John Pearson showing the 70s version of multi-tasking....simultaneously doing 16 oz. curls and limbo!

John Pearson showing the 70s version of multi-task...

Talk about a motley crew. Gunnisons best and brightest.<br />(l to r) John Pearson, Tom Pulaski, ?, Jimmy Newberry, Jack Paneck, Scotty Gilbert and Les Choy. Photo courtesy of the Jim Newberry collection.

Talk about a motley crew. Gunnisons best and brigh...

Gilby and the Newbs. Photo courtesy of the Jim Newberry collection.

Gilby and the Newbs. Photo courtesy of the Jim New...

Conley, Newberry and Gilbert Early hard cores who impacted Gunnison climbing. Photo courtesy of the Jim Newberry Collection.

Conley, Newberry and Gilbert Early hard cores who ...

A synopsis from the secretary of the WSC Climbing Club, James Newberry, on the 1975 season.

A synopsis from the secretary of the WSC Climbing ...

Doug Scott. A man who really networked climbers from this era. He knew everyone from the California guys to the hillbilly's (me) in Colorado Springs to the ice climbers in North Conway. Everyone stopped by Doug's blue house for one reason or another.

Doug Scott. A man who really networked climbers fr...


Add Comment Comments on Gunnison
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By Joseph Stover
May 4, 2006

Are there any guidebooks with information about sport climbing and/or bouldering near Gunnison and Crested Butte? Where is the nearest limestone with lots in the 5.8-5.11, V0-V6 range? I was looking at the crags near Canon City and they look nice, is that a reasonable drive from Gunnison?

Any info is greatly appreciated.

By ropeless420
From: evergreen , co.
May 6, 2006

Hey Joe, Gunnison is a great place to climb. There are a couple of guides out, bouldering the G spot and unknown are both great. If you need a little help, go see Andy at All Sports Replay, he's a good guy and he knows the area. Sorry but gunny doesn't have any limestone, Shelf Road is the closest. Good luck.

By aaron voreis
From: Gunnison, CO
Apr 12, 2007

Rock n Roll Sports in Gunnison (970-641-9150) has FREE climbing guides for most of the local areas including the Ultra Sick God's Crag which features stellar bolt clipping on pocketed tuff from 5.9-5.13+. Rock n Roll also has super beta on the Black Canyon, Taylor, The Point, Spring Creek, tons of Bouldering areas, etc...

Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.

By John Peterson
Apr 13, 2007

> Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.

You mean all the routes are super-sandbagged? :-)

Tell Sharp End to get off their ass and print up Leo's book!

By John Peterson
Sep 21, 2007

It's finally out. Hundreds of new routes on my todo list now. Congrats to Leo on finally getting the guidebook published!

The book includes all those hardcore sport routes up at God's Crag along with tons of stuff in Taylor and Spring Creek canyons.

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Oct 2, 2007

OK, about time now where do I get a copy here in the backwoods of Boulder?????

By Ben Kiessel
Oct 29, 2007

Here you go Phil:
http://www.sharpendbooks.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?p_id=00>>>>>