Mountain Project: Climbing Gunnison

Gunnison is a city of about 5000 people and is located at the bottom of several valleys. Due to its location, cold air in all the valleys settles into Gunnison at night, making it one of the coldest places in Colorado if not the States.

In this area is a great variety of climbing opportunities ranging from short cragging to some of the longest rock routes in the state. In fact, the only grade VI routes in Colorado are located here.

West of the town of Gunnison is the The Black Canyon of Guninson or "The Black" as it is affectionately referred to, and is Colorado's big wall climbing destination. Land here is a combination of private, state, BLM, and federal land. Take this into consideration if you go exploring, since some locals do not take kindly to uninvited crossing of their property. Tires have been known to be slashed, cars ticketed, and climbers escorted off private land.

"The Black" is as deep as 2700 ft at its greatest depth. There are no other canyon in the country that has the same depth relative to its width as The Black and and hence it is located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park. The visitor guide has helpful information if you are visiting it for the first time.

Getting There

Gunnison is located on US 50 in the SW part of the state. From the east, you can drive from US 285 to US 50 over Monarch Pass (11,000ft) and drop down into the town of Gunnison. Directions from there depend upon the exact area. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies W of Gunnison along US 50 for the South Rim and off CO Hwy 92 for the North Rim. From the Denver Metro area it is 4 plus hours to Gunnison. From the West, you can access US 50 from Montrose via US 50 from the N and US 550 (the Million Dollar Hwy) from the S. From Montrose, it is an hour plus to Gunnison.

Map of the area

The Classics

Photos of Gunnison

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These guys were hard core! John Pearson, J...	Scotty Gilbert, Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry. Co...	John Pearson showing the 70s version of multi-task...
Talk about a motley crew. Gunnisons best and brigh...	Gilby and the Newbs. Photo courtesy of the Jim New...	Conley, Newberry and Gilbert Early hard cores who ...
A synopsis from the secretary of the WSC Climbing ...	Doug Scott under Middle Cathedral. A man who reall...	The face of Gothic seen from near the town.
Another view of the face on Gothic.	Then Gunnison local Doug Scott in Yosemite.	Jim Nigro, Gunnison hardman paying attention to th...
Early Gunnison Crazies (same day as pyramid above)...	The Western State Climbing Team, created in 2009. ...	The Western State College Mountain Rescue Team. ...
Brittney Jeck on the left side of the Tiger Wall.	We still 'get wild' in Gunnison in 2009, especiall...	An boulder we refer to as Duffy's Aretes, because ...
Skyland in the Fall.	Some members of Gunnison's youth climbing team, th...	More members of the Peaceful Warriors, showing som...
flower at the rim	Chad Jukes, amputee climber, at Hartmans for 24 Ho...	Crawford Needle driving from the Black Canyon.
Shane Niedert up Taylor Canyon.	The guide and the rack.	The Tune Up crew. Photo courtesy of Dave Meyer, R...
The CB/Gunnison Stage Race from BITD.	Poster design for the Black Canyon Stage Race in 1...

Comments on Gunnison

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 18, 2011

By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 4, 2006

Are there any guidebooks with information about sport climbing and/or bouldering near Gunnison and Crested Butte? Where is the nearest limestone with lots in the 5.8-5.11, V0-V6 range? I was looking at the crags near Canon City and they look nice, is that a reasonable drive from Gunnison?

Any info is greatly appreciated.

By ropeless420
From: evergreen , co.
May 6, 2006

Hey Joe, Gunnison is a great place to climb. There are a couple of guides out, bouldering the G spot and unknown are both great. If you need a little help, go see Andy at All Sports Replay, he's a good guy and he knows the area. Sorry but gunny doesn't have any limestone, Shelf Road is the closest. Good luck.

By aaron voreis
Apr 12, 2007

Rock n Roll Sports in Gunnison (970-641-9150) has FREE climbing guides for most of the local areas including the Ultra Sick God's Crag which features stellar bolt clipping on pocketed tuff from 5.9-5.13+. Rock n Roll also has super beta on the Black Canyon, Taylor, The Point, Spring Creek, tons of Bouldering areas, etc...

Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.

By John Peterson
Apr 13, 2007

> Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.

You mean all the routes are super-sandbagged? :-)

Tell Sharp End to get off their ass and print up Leo's book!

By John Peterson
Sep 21, 2007

It's finally out. Hundreds of new routes on my todo list now. Congrats to Leo on finally getting the guidebook published!

The book includes all those hardcore sport routes up at God's Crag along with tons of stuff in Taylor and Spring Creek canyons.

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Oct 2, 2007

OK, about time now where do I get a copy here in the backwoods of Boulder?????

By Ben Kiessel
Oct 29, 2007

Here you go Phil:
www.sharpendbooks.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?p_id=00080

By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Aug 17, 2008

I climbed at "The Point" near Powderhorn over the weekend and am looking for some beta. There is a new route on the east end of the south face that climbs a roof (1st route you come to). Anyone know what the rating is? I thought it was .10a but it felt way harder!

I was sorry to see that this little Crag was left out of Leo's book (which I own) but can understand that he was busy getting the damn thing published. Thanks Leo for a job well done!

-Lee

By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
May 12, 2009

Hey everyone,

I'd like to extend an invitation for everyone to check out 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, the first 24 hour climbing festival in the west. It will be at Hartmans on the 27th and 28th of June.

Also this same weekend is the Gunnison Loco Motive, Adventure Sport race: 5 miles of kayaking, 26 miles of mountain biking at Hartmans, and a 10k run. (or half that). This is all held in conjunction with the Gunnison River Festival.

Check our website(s) at:

www.gunnisonriverfestival.com/glory.html

and

www.gunnisonriverfestival.com/locomotive.html

or give me (Luke) a call 970-943-7053 or email: lmehall@western.edu

By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Apr 13, 2010

For updated info on this years (2010) 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, check out www.gunnisonglory.com.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 11, 2010

I'm going climbing Taylor Canyon next week! It's been twenty years... so fired up! (as Doug would say)

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jun 12, 2010

I'm really jealous, take a run up Dunn's and Left Hand for me.

By dan humphrey
Sep 10, 2010

I will be in Gunnison this weekend Sep 11. Anyone around for climbing at Hartman's? Dan (415) 845-7363.

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
May 18, 2011

Hey, all you Gunnystoners and Crusted Buteations, HEADS UP! Two remarkable shows at Neptune's. Thur. 5/19 8p Jorge & Joanne Urioste on the Early Days of climbing at Red Rock Nevada AND Fri. 5/20 7p A Tribute to Gunnison's own John (the Gambler) Rosholt.

If you can, try to be there. Check the News or Neptune's site for more info.

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Gunnison

Description

Getting There

The Classics