Magna Mater Spire 

FA:  Alex Garhart and Daniel Garman New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 147 page views Submitted By: agarhart on Jul 5, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

Make a couple tricky boulder moves off the ground to a horizontal weakness (weakness protects with BD #0.4 Camalot) and move up and right to clip a bolt using a hidden undercling. Climb past the bolt (crux) via a sidepull and stemming to easier terrain and a good stance. Climb easy class 5 to the unique, small summit.
This short bouldery route is very fun and would be worthy of 3 stars if it were not for the sections of slightly crumbly rock.

Location 

This free standing tower is on the far west end of Mighty Mouse Wall ~50' left of Elysium. The route ascends the southeast arete and east face.

Protection 

BD #0.4, (2)#1, 1 bolt. No anchors on summit, down climb 8' of easy 5th class to the "neck" of formation and belay in a crack that takes #1 BDs. Simul rap from the from the deep groove in the neck down the east and west faces.

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BETA PHOTO: Looking east. You can see the deep groove used fo...