A little overhyped in the guidebook but still definitely worth doing. A good variety of sizes make this a fun, intersting line. The crux is a little spooky since its protected by blue tcu's and the rock isn't Unaweep's finest. I don't think it warrants a PG rating, though...
The chimney leads to great hands, then a fingery-face section moves left to a r-facing corner up high. No fixed anchor.
Location
This will be an obvious line on the far left side of the Wall. Look for a wide chimney-ish start left of a big corner. Walk off left.
Protection
Small to fists. Grey/blue/yellow tcus sizes are crucial. No Anchor
The guidebook gives this 11a, but I found it to be much easier- probably for the simple reason that KC Baum has HUGE hands and the crux of this is somewhat thin.
All this is to say that if you come to Juniper to climb the 8 and 9, give this one a TR (its on the way back down from the walk off) and you'll probably be pleasantly suprised!