BETA PHOTO: Spot the pillar looking feature to easily find the...
Description
To access the clean, long corner, you have to climb a short thirty foot seam by hard to protect C1 or probably 11+/12- moves to a ledge. From there, it is excellent climbing that is sustained. The book says to break it up into 4 or so pitches, but three long pitches make it a fun sustained climb.
P1. Climb from the C1 section and to right below the obvious roof and belay (200ft).
P2. 2nd pitch is 170 to a nice ledge.
P3. Last pitch is about 50 feet or so with most of it being easy 5th classing to the top.
Location
The route is about 200 yds from Unknown 1 and two. It is the only obvious, sustained corner. To get down, you have to walk about 0.2 of mile to the rap station of Dog Day Afternoon.
Protection
For the beginning bring green C3 or black Alien or Ball nuts. After that you it is nice to have doubles all the way to #4 Camalot with one #5 and triples of #0.3-2. If you break the climb up into more pitches, then you could do less gear.
By Jesse Zacher From: Grand Junction, Co Nov 11, 2007
To access the clean long corner you have to climb a short thirty foot seam by hard to protect C1 or probably 11+/12- moves to a ledge. From there it is excellent climbing that is sustained. The book says to break it up into 4 or so pitches, but three long pitches make it a fun sustained climb. climb from the c1 section and to right below the obvious roof and belay (200ft). 2nd pitch is 170 to a nice ledge. Last pitch is about 50 feet or so with most of it being easy 5th classing to the top.
For the beginning, bring green C3 or black Alien or Ball nuts. After that you it is nice to have doubles all the way to #4 Camalot with one 5 and triples of .3-2. If you break the climb up into more pitches then you could do less gear.
The route is about 200 yds from Unknown 1 and two. It is the only Obvious sustained corner. To get down you have to walk about .2 of mile to the rap station of Dog Day Afternoon.
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