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Upper Mother's Buttress
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Titus Groan 

Titus Groan 

5.10

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 350 feet
Views: 74 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Oct 25, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Pink is Titus Groan. At the very beginning you can...


Description 

The first pitch is stellar. Takes you to the big ledge with a two bolt anchor. The second pitch is the crux offwidth pitch where you go around several bulges. There are plenty of face holds and features, so one doesn't have to do any real, hardcore, offwidth climbing. Bring lots of slings and stretch the second pitch a full 60 meters to gain a ledge (past the squeeze which is slick!) and belay. The last pitch is mostly easy terrain but watch out for extremely loose rock on the last hundred feet.


Location 

The route starts up the right side of a giant A on the west, outside of the gully. To your left it a left trending crack. You can either do the right of left side of the A. The right is 10- and the left 11ish fingers.


Protection 

A set of nuts, Doubles from #0.3-4 Camalots. One #5. Two ropes for the rap unless you don't mind a little down climbing on easy terrain on the last rap.