Shady Character 

FA:  Bob Eakle and Barry Young 7/95 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 100 feet Views: 170 page views Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on May 13, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The roof variation

Description 

Climb up the chimney for about 30 feet until a roof blocks your way. Face traverse left and gain a wonderful zig-zagging hand and finger crack. Continue up this crack to the top.

Highly recommended variation: Start left of the huge roof on the left. Traverse to the right under the roof, utilizing a tips to off finger crack (awesome). Pass the roof and set up a semi-hanging belay. Continue straight up the great zig-zagging crack to the top.

Descent: Walk right and rap from the bolts for Dovercourt.

Location 

About 30 feet downhill, left of Dovercourt.

Protection 

Nuts and cams: small to wide hands. Extra tight hand pieces make for a nice belay on the variation.

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At the first belay. The finger traverse left that ...