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Mother's Buttress
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The Lord of Wisdom 

5.10+

   

FA: KC Baum and Don Anderson, 10/22/1987
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 212 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 22, 2007


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Approaching the crux



Description 

Layback the start until you can stand and gain a nice hand/finger crack. Continue up with great jams and a few face holds to a small alcove with a nice rest just below a bulge. Pull the bulge with badly flared hand jams (crux) and gain the top ledge.

There are bolts on the top of the ledge not visible from below. Some sort of edge protection would be helpful for your anchor.


Location 

Located to the right of where the trail meets the wall. Head around the corner past a deep chimney to a crack with an offwidth crack just to its right.


Protection 

Cams from small to hands, and nuts.



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By Sevve Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 7, 2007
rating: 5.10+

There are two starts to this route. The guidebook tells you to go up the offwidth on the right and traverse into the finger/handcrack. This move is weird and challenging.