P1: Climb up the nice hand crack through a small bulge at 5.8+ until you gain a nice ledge and belay.
P2: Exit the belay on the right, moving up a right-leaning hand crack leading to a small roof. Pass the roof on the right and climb through a bulge using flairing finger moves (crux). Continue up a nice crack in in dike rock then continue to the top via easy class 5.
Location
Start on the other side of the detached pillar from Dual Reality in a hand crack.
Protection
Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces.
First time I did this I thought I was having an off day - the next time I decided it was an off climb. The crux (fixed nut) is pretty burly and not particularly pleasant. First pitch is OK though. We were looking at a traverse left from the belay to Dual Reality above the bolt - that might make a nice route that stays below 5.10.
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