BETA PHOTO: No Name on the left, and Welcoming Party on the ri...
Description
Yet another quality route on the East end of Lower Mothers Buttress. Follow the trail up from the road to the Mint Jam Chimney (see Mint Jam). This route shares the same start as No Name Route but cuts left into the offwidth where No Name tackles the finger crack. Start in a good hand crack just right of Mint Jam Chimney and climb up for 10 feet to a sloping ledge and head right into a super funky offwidth. The book suggests a sideways body stem to get through this section, I suggest bringing a healthy selection of cuss words and a big cam for the move, it would probably be called 5.10 in Boulder Canyon and have a few bolts on it :-) Finish straight up on wide hands passing a few chockstones and belay on a large ledge at 90 feet. Walk off to the east.
Definitely bring a 3.5 or a 4 not too bad otherwise.
By Cale Csizmadi From: Colorado Springs Aug 9, 2004 rating: 5.7+
Great one pitch route with a little bit of everything and a great intro to Unaweep climbing. Stepping off the ground you have a great hand crack with some stemming to the 1st foot ledge. Then the rock gets slightly steeper with great jams to the next ledge below the offwidth (#1 BD protects). Tackling the offwidth I used a #3.5 BD at the begin climbed up left side in and protected the top moves with a #4 BD.
I'd argue that the crux is 5.8, but I have no off width technique at all. Take the #4 camalot with for the crux and dig it in deep. 1.5 stars - not nearly as good as its neighbors.
Mother's Buttress
RSS Feed
