That's what's left of Captain Crack. If you took out the bolts and climbed to the rim (and had more rock) as did the first ascent team you might think different of your rating. It was done in '82 or '83. Sad to see gone.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Apr 22, 2008
Man, there's some gristle on that approach!!
By Kangaru Rat From: Under a Rock, Desert SW May 14, 2008
According to Bjornstad the climb is a variation to "Everything in Between"; FA by Chuck Grossman and Peter Delanoy in 1982. He lists EIB and the Variation as having a common start, with the left as EIB (5.10 OW) and the right as the Variation (5.11 OW). The rockfall eliminated the left crack but left the right one. Interesting that there is now a variation to a climb for which the original climb no longer exists.
A photo after the collapsing of the buttress that John mentioned. Interesting to compare the two. And as an added bonus, it seems that some locals put up a new route in the crack that was revealed. Anyone know what this route (labeled NEW) is called/rated?
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