A short splitter hand crack. A few finger moves between pods at the bottom with a short traverse left before climbing straight up thin hands to hands (crux) to a two bolt anchor with chains.
Location
This route is located to the left of the Bunny Ramp route by about 100 yards. It is an obvious splitter in white rock that is visible from the parking area
Protection
#3 TCU up through #2 Camalot. I used 2 #0.75 Camalots and 2 #3 TCUs, as well as the other recommended gear.
10a seemed about right when I did it some years ago. Scarface has a steeper start, and this crack has more of a positive feel to it through the thin hands section. The thin hands section on Scarface also feels a bit steeper than the thin hands section on this one. Just my $.02.
By Eli Steiger From: Gunnison, Co Mar 1, 2009 rating: 5.10
This route is known as Key Hole. Its a really good climb! I agree with slim, not near as hard as Scarface.
Caution heroes Anyone looking at this route should also know its mostly all #0.75 & #1 Camalots. Now, if that's .10a for your hands = enjoy youself, but keep in mind that I thought Super Crack was 5.8 which for some may be OW and LB. As Ive always said: "desert cracks make you critically aware of your anatomical shortcoming and prowess".
RSS Feed
Slideshow
