This is called Bunny Ramp...2 pitches...1st is the 5.6 open book. 2nd is 5.9+ and traverses up right, squeezes through a hole, and finishes atop the cliff. FA: Rusty Baillie and Jenny Goldberg, 1978.
Going past the anchors felt pretty PG. It's probly safer for the leader, my partner placed a large cam about 8 or so feet above the bolts in the bunny ramp crack and extended it with a cordelete before commiting to the traverse. Both of us were looking at an unprotected swing. My partner completed the traverse and didn't like what he saw so he set up a belay off the anchor above interiors and belayed me up. When I cleaned the large cam, I was looking at a nasty dropping swing into a 90 degree corner. Not too fun to do a tricky balancy foot traverse with that fall potential. Once at the belay I looked at the next section and I didn't want anything to do with the virtually unprotected stemming wide chimney traverse to get to the back of the chimmney above the cave route. Not to mention the tricky awkward looking commited moves up to the hole where you can get pro in. the upper pitch seemed like it should atleast be PG if not R rated. Maybe we missed something.
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