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Egypt Rock - NorthWest Face 

5.11 R

   
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FA: Gary Ziegler, Gary Boucher, Bob Doane, John Auld - 1961
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 230 feet, Grade III
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Views: 70 page views

Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 28, 2008


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The North West faces of Egypt Rock and Pharoh Poin...


Description 

One of the originals. Mediocre climbing at best is made up for by an adventourous experience, a remote setting, and sweet views of the entire Momument Canyon.

P1: Climb a short pitch through the Chinle and up through a lieback (cruxy) to a bolted belay. 5.9.

P2: Climb this long pitch up through wondering wide terrain exiting a 5.9 squeeze (crux) and onto the ledge before the summit caprock.

P3: Climb a scary sequence off the belay to the summit. Not worth it in my opinion. C1.

Double 70m ropes will get you to the ground with rope streach. Watch the pull as we got our ropes severly hung up when they fell. Better maybe to rap to the bench at the base of Pharoah Point and third class it to the base.


Location 

Follow the trail down from the upper Monument trailhead and head right down into the main wash as the main trail passes Clueless Tower and makes a hard left. Jog right into the wash and follow it upstream.


Protection 

Singles to a #5 Friend. Hexes #5, 8, 10, 12.



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Top of Egypt Rock with Rainbow Tower, and Fromer Tower(?) in the background.

Top of Egypt Rock with Rainbow Tower, and Fromer T...


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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 17, 2008

Those four did the FA in 1961. They were all members of the Colorado College Mountaineering Club. Gary told me that he made special bongs for the ascent that were over 8 inches wide! He said they sounded like a herd of cows walking to the base of the tower with all those clanking aluminum bongs.