Aid Route III 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Aid Consensus:  C3- [details] Length:  4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Views: 79 page views Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Jan 20, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Mike Z Spread out and reaching for a horrible micr...

Description 

The crux is 30 feet off the ground where you have to face some blown out piton scars. Bad gear and a fall might end you up on the talus. This goes clean, do not bring a hammer, there is already enough rock damage. Once you high step the last pecker scar trend right with the giant flake and make a semi free move to gain a rotten crack that widens to #5/6. Be careful of the block below the anchors as it is detached. Second pitch is C1-ish through a roof and up a flare to belay anchors. The rest of the route looks to go up the rotten chimney up higher. We opted to rap.

Location 

Route is sandwiched between Wide Load (Route 3) and Route #2 in the obvious dihedral with bad piton scars.

Protection 

Micro Nuts (offsets helpful) and micro cams, ball nuts (first two sizes), slings, doubles of standard rack, 1 #5 and #6 Camalot. You can do a two rope rap to the ground from the second pitch. Doesn't look to be anchors from then up. A walk off seems possible about a quarter of a mile to climbers left. NO HAMMER.

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BETA PHOTO: The book says to stay left but there are no scars ...

Jesse B on the second pitch.