South and East facing climbs. Finding the descent approach will be the crux. Never crowded except for the tourists on the Ute Canyon Overlook. All gear sizing is given in the new C4 range (grey #4, purple #5).
Getting There
Park at the upper Ute Canyon trail head. Walk 1 mile east on the Monument Road. Look for a clearing in the shrubs where the east facing wall comes into view. Descend the gully through juniper forest for100 yards to a Juniper above 5.7 chimney and slab. Fix a 100ft line and rap in. Bring jugs if you don't want to hand over hand at the end of the day.