Crack of Noon Tower 

FA:  James Stover, Mack Lewis Fall 2002 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 150 feet, Grade II Season:  All year round Views: 302 page views Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Aug 4, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: A few routes of the Kissing Couple Group

Description 

Two routes head up the smaller formation immediately opposite of the start of the "Long Dong Wall Route" This "Crack of Noon Tower" is for those who get scooped on the Kissing Couple because they got the "gentlemen of leisure" start! The climber's left is supposedly easier than the chimney on the right. I won't spoil the adventure for you. The "Crack of Noon Route" on the climbers left is of a fair quality for the Monument with a few good sections. I have not climbed the "Right Route," but Mack and his (brother?) reported it to be fairly sustained and scary. On the FA, James and Mack were forced to simul-rappel off the top putting the finishing brush strokes on a true quality desert adventure that left the least amount of impact as possible. It has been rumored that there were anchors placed by an unknown party at a later date.

The line in green on the beta photo looks to be an excellent fistjam adventure long and sustained. Probably undone, unless Matt L. or one of the countless other hardmen around here scooped her up.

Protection 

Save a few fist or big hands pieces for the top of "Crack of Noon Route."