This spire/pinnacle/tower (whatever you want to call it) is located up Kodels Canyon. Look in Bjorstads DESERT ROCK III book (page 256,257) for direction. This route ascends the NORTH face of Little Bighore. The bottom is wide, then narrows near the top. Clip two drilled angles, then end the first pitch on a spacious ledge. The second pitch ascend a bolt ladder. These bolts could have been avoided with beaks and small blades. Above these bolts are a few spicy free moves to the summit.BRING A HANDRILL, AND PUT IN TWO MORE BOLTS FOR THE SUMMIT ANCHOR!!! You might want to bring a long sling (6') so you can drill the anchor further away from the original anchor. The original anchor consists of two drilled angles in white sandstone. There are multiple cracks around each angle. This anchor is very suspect. O.K. route. Great Location and Solitude. -tda
Protection
Bring a set of cams. Make Sure you lug one #3.5 CAMALOT, two #4 CAMALOTS, one #4.5 CAMALOTS. These large boys make life easier.
The rock around the pitons on the summit is starting to deteriorate. [Definitely] could use replacement. Also beware of the last two pins on the ladder as they are loosening. Climbed this on two hex, one nut stacks for the first 30 feet! Made it A-scary. BRING THE BIG CAMS! Also bring a new piece of paper for the summit register the [original] is full with eight or nine ascents. Fun climb in a nice canyon.
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