This is a inviting looking, right angling crack that is just left of Dihedral #1 or "Left Dihedral" in this website guide. Well, it invites but it doesn't delight. It is loose. If you have to, you have to. There is a rappel point at 100 ft up that is less than inspiring. There is a 2 bolt anchor above. I wouldn't get that curious.
There is are cactuses growing in the crack about 12 feet up. ouch! This is a fun route but the belay anchors are pretty sketchy. I would not trust them.
This route is better than it looks from the ground. The first 20 feet or so are loose and crumbly, with pro adequate but perhaps not bomber. After that the rock is solid with sound, abundant pro. In early May of 2004 the anchor was, in my opinion, safe. The crux of this route is in the first 20 feet, and, while probably not 5.9, should not be attempted by a leader not solid at that grade (due to the friable rock).
This reminded me of home (Vedauwoo) from the ground, but requires more smaller stuff than one would think. Hesitate to dispute the rating, because it wasn't so hard for a 9, but it was kinda delicate and facey near the top. An extra anchor point at the finish would certainly be a little more reassuring, the drilled angle on the left sticks out enough that I easily tied it off to anchor myself!
Monument Canyon
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