BETA PHOTO: Good for a quicky with a weak partner, but overall...
Description
Easy-to-access desert tower aka Defecating Monk.
From the West entrance of the monument, past the entrance kiosk, drive 1mi up the Rim Drive road, park at the 1st hairpin curve. The uncapped tower is obvious. Hike down into the drainage and up to the base.
P1. The standard start starts up a crack system below and to the right of the chimney. Alternate 5.7+ start to the left. The crux moves are off the grounded and unprotected. Then a #9 hex, #10 hex, #3F, #4F. This is a short pitch. Drilled angle, 1 1/2F, 2 1/2F useful for belay.
Pitch 2: go inside and up squeeze chimney and exit L onto a sloping ledge that supposed had/has optional anchors. Continue out on face moves on sloping shingles of loose Windgate to the summit. No cap rock. Climb it before it is gone. 3 piece anchor.
Rappel 110 feet to base.
One star for the adventure of the climb.
Protection
Single set of cams to #4F, #9/10/11 hexes useful. Big cam might be useful.
I thought this was one of the worst, most insignificant desert towers I have ever done, anywhere. Prepare to do sideways offwidth through packrat spooge on loose, soft rock. Maybe I am old and sensitive, but one star seems pretty generous. Still, if you make it a point of ticking towers, I guess you gotta do it. By the way, the tower is called The Defecating Monk. -SL
By agarhart From: Grand Junction, CO Jul 30, 2007 rating: 5.8+
The route is soft and dirty, but a good intro level tower with a couple of interesting moves. It's easily accessible and shaded all morning in the hot summers.
Fruita Canyon
RSS Feed
