Well, I wasn't going to post this, but in reality it was pretty good and eventually will probably become a Momument classic. So, here it goes. This is a free variation to the origonal Gary Ziegler, Bob Doan, and Gary Boucher's 1961 Aid line of The true Egypt Rock.
It took some cleaning, but overall it is of great quality for the grade. I would put this adventure right up there with Lizards and Scorpions, Fast Draw and the Kor Route on Kissing Couple.
Approach this five headed monster from the south. Bring some binoculars so you can eyeball up the route. You are climbing a crack system on the South Face.
P1 From the South, bushwack up the chinmey seperating the tower from the rim till you are at a stance 30 feet below a lone scraggly bramble of some kind. This belay put you directly in the bulleye for anything that comes down so climb with caution. 30 feet of chossaneering lead to steeper and better rock on the right wall. Finially making a committing move right to gain a big ledge system. 70', 5.8.
P2 find the line of weekness and run out the slab 50' horizontaly to the right. No pro, if you fall here you are going to get hurt for the second or the leader. 50', 5.6.
P3 You are now at the base of a great pitch & I won't spoil it for you, but follow the line of least resistance up and left of the original aid line passing many acient relics. Once at the anchor, short rope 20' to the huge platform below the five summit caps. 160'+/-, 5.10.
P4 Take your pic, no anchors on any of them. Figure out how to get down w/o making a mess (of the rock or yourself) 15', 5.8.
Rappel from 2 solid stations back to terra firma
Location
This route is great go do it!
Protection
Singles from purple Metolius to a #4 Camalot. Triples from #0.5 to #3 Camalot. 15 runners total, several double length runners, screamers are nice too. Double 60 meter ropes.
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