Stand start on two underclings at 4 feet. (hope your bicep power is up) with an obvious rail for your feet at the base. Make a Herculean throw into a good, but awkward, pocket. Pull up and through to a solid crimp and bump out right to another crimp. Smear your face on the wall and stay tight.... Try and find a good spot for your feet and setup on the two opposing crimps on the dihedral and make a huge throw into a big, shallow hueco (or if your a badass, pull into a shallow pocket with your left hand and static the move into the hueco). Topout is scary and more than a little sketch. The landing is better than it was but still not very good and you will definitely need a couple of pads and a good spotter.
I've climbed this area for about 4 years now and never seen anyone on it... although obviously attempted before (due to the bolt at the top) Im pretty sure its still waiting a FA. I've never even seen chalk on it until I started projecting this route, and the ridiculous amount of cobwebs on it were an obvious indicator as well.
Any correcting information would be greatly appreciated, and if you've sent this problem... why haven't I ever heard about it?
V9-10, possibly harder, off the underclings... definitely V7-8 starting at the pocket.
Location
Charm Boulder... follow the trail on the backside of Bullet Hole Boulder up the hill about 40 yards. About 30 degrees overhanging, the route starts in the middle of the gentle dihedral. Cant miss it!
Protection
One bolt at the apex of the boulder marking the route.
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