The Book of Pleasure 

FA:  Mike Baker, Lesli Henderson, March 1994 - 5.9 C1+ Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.10 C1+ [details] Length:  4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Season:  Spring through fall Views: 432 page views Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Book of Pleasure 5.10 C1+ Or Free!

Description 

P1: solo up the short perfict hand crack to the alcove that marks the start of the of the Ribbed Buttress.

P2 or P2/3: Start the ribbed buttress climbing a short semi rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.

P3 or 4: You are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- To a Bolt and Pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.

P4 or 5: Thruch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 aquward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.

Location 

Same as Ribbed Buttress.

Protection 

Single friends from a .25 to a #6 and single set of Camalots from #1 to a #5 a few small nuts, lots of longs runners, hammer and a few select arrows and blades in case the fixed ones blow.