This is the left-facing dihedral in Area 1 of the Side Areas. Decent climbing, but not the best rock. Start on a sport route and face climb past three bolts, only clipping the last two with 24" runners to give some pro for the first 20 feet. Then move into the dihedral and make some awkward moves to get going. Watch out for some loose blocks here. The rest of the climb is nice with good liebacking to the anchors. The technical crux is using some crimps past the bolts, but the awkward move in the dihedral is kinda hard, too.
Per Troy from Tooele: This route is located about 12 feet left of "Circle Square and the Triangle." I would admit that this route is much easier than it looks. Clip the starting bolts, long runner the last one before the crack, then enjoy the giant left arch. Clip a bomber chain anchor and lower. One rope will get you to the deck. Pretty clean, with a cool ledge to sit and have a smoke on about 50' up. Enjoy!!!
Eds. This was entered twice into the database. Now we've combined the 2 entries under the first entry.
Protection
Standard rack up to #4 Friend. Several shoulder slings for the first two bolts. 50m rope to lower off fixed anchor.
Per Troy from Tooele: Quickdraws, one long runner for the last bolt before you enter the crack system. Cams to 3.5", big cam is completely optional. Runners for the cams would prove useful.
Photos of Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral Slideshow
Very fun route. When it looks like it might get hard there is always a huge jug. The traverse under the arch to the anchors has huge feet. Pretty generously graded -no where near that difficult.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 12, 2002
This has also been called "Luhr's Route?" 5.8 start? 5.7 rest? Fun. Looks harder than it turns out to be. Enjoy.
By Mikelsons From: Boulder, CO Oct 28, 2009 rating: 5.8
The crux is climbing past the two bolts at the start. It's balancy slab climbing, but not too hard. The dihedral is a blast. There's lot's of variety and several options for climbing. I cleaned it and climbed it with stemming and jamming while facing left. My friend Wayne on his third day of climbing ever top-roped it. He faced right, into the crack, and jammed it.
No more difficult than 5.8 at the start(first two bolts). The rest climbs at a nice 5.6+ or .7-. IMO, If the arch is keeping you from climbing this, well, shit I say climb it! If you can slab a little 5.8, you should have the crack dialed.
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