Bangs Canyon

The Captain on "Choss Master" 11a. Area Warm-up. P...

Description 

Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag!! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bangs Canyon lies a VERY steep little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD: there is an 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...) but everything else is 12a-13c.

At first glance the rocks seems like total choss, but the two routes I've done so far were both great. This is a superb training crag, due to the steepness and technical nature of the climbing. Best of all, this crag sits in a BEAUTIFUL canyon complete with waterfall and afternoon shade.

Getting There 

To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.