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The Quarry Wall
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Frank's Wild Years 
Silver Bullet 

Frank's Wild Years 

5.11

   

FA: Hank Caylor, Wayne Crill, Kevin Gallagher, and Jimmy Menendez
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: Winter
Views: 329 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008


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My friend Moose standing beneath Frank's Wild Year...


Description 

The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.


Description 

The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.



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Top half of Frank's Wild Years.


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By Darren Mabe
From: Goulder, CO
Apr 14, 2008

First half fun and weird. bit loose getting to the anchors, the route could have ended at the ledge. But I won't complain going another 15 feet over the awkward bulge.

By Wayne Crill
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11

My understanding was that the inception, conception, and FA of this route was 100% Mr. Hankey.