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The East Quarry
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5.12c

   

FA: John Langston
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 188 page views

Submitted By: Beached Nuts on Mar 22, 2009


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Description 

Originally I sent this route and thought 11c/d or so. I thought it'd be called "East Quarry Story". The most important hold on the route broke off and in trying to send it sans hold, I ripped my A4 and A2. It's been almost 2 months since I did it and I'm nowhere near being able to get back on it.

I'm tentatively rating it 12c, only because it's harder than every 12c in CCC, but I haven't re-sent it yet so I can't really say. I only got the FA before the hold broke, it's not a project, fuck this route (aside from the ripping of connective tissue and the cancellation of so many plans that it caused, it's actually a good route).

All the bolts were placed on lead.


Location 

Middle of the wall, 3 hangers up high. Right of Hellhound, the A-Z right to left thing got this one in the wrong place.


Protection 

It's a sport route, but you need a few finger (0.5) size cams to place before you get up to the bolts.