This is a short but fun TR in the right Quarry area. Doug found it. The climbing is more interesting now that a few big blocks were cleaned. A bit less solid at the top, but you get a nice mantel & a cool toe hold in the middle.
Still, there is dirt and lichen that may lead to whining, but there are some interesting lines over here, especially that El Matador-like double dihedral.
Thinking about this a bit more after cleaning it, it could be lead. There is a spot for a small (blue or green Alien) right below Doug's foot in the photo, and then a #1 and/or #2 Camalot in that foot hold up and right from Doug in the photo, but it would be R at least.
Location
About 200 yards to the right of The Mummy. This is probably the left-most climb in this right Quarry area.
Protection
Probably like 30+ ft of sling to get that big chunk of rock up there, then there are a couple #2 Camalot and a #1 Camalot placement up there. About 12 ft of sling to extend over the edge.
I led this route and thought it was more like a 5.7. A tricky start with poor gear leads to a sweet little dirty finger crack. Good small cams. I angled right after the finger crack to join the anchor atop Pinkerton. A nice name would be Barnacle.
RSS Feed
