Topo addendum on photo already attached to route. ...
Description
This is an entry for the route snuck in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is a bolted line which can be supplemented with a #1 Camalot to start and possibly a #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot up near the top. It is a bit squeezed. Anyone know the name or FA?
You can hand jam briefly to get off the ground to the right or face climb (harder) to the left of the 1st bolt. Clip, yard, big ledge. Clip. Delicately slither up the face or stem right in the finger crack briefly. Move up higher, clip. From here, you can try to bear hug the sucker or move left into a crack system or chicken off onto PPBB's crux face moves. Clip again, and the face eases up considerably. Join the top of Fast Boat to China and top out.
If you wander right and left of the bolts, you can make it 5.10, cluck, cluck, cluck.
What is the squeeze job bolt line between PPBB and Fast Boat to China? It isn't in the guidebook or on this site. The hangers are cleverly unpainted for maximum "dig my route" value. Never more than a few feet from a solid crack line on either side. Takes away from both of the [decent] climbs that it crowds. Back East this would have been chopped before the last bolt was placed.
If this new line takes anything away from PPBB, I'll be extremely bummed.
By David Houston From: Boulder, Colorado Apr 22, 2007
Climbed that "squeeze job" today. Perhaps we should post the route separately under that name and move this discussion there! The first move off the ground is a really fun boulder problem style move. Being a chicken I would recommend a stick clip for the first bolt. The route is extremely contrived which makes it very difficult to rate. I was not able to do it without occasionally resorting to holds used by the routes on either side. I don't think it detracts from PP&BB though. Not a route I would do again or recommend despite the fun move off the ground...I think this would have been better left as a top-rope variation.
It's been a while but as I remember.... We put up a route to the right of PPBB called "Salad Bar" about the same time as we put up PPBB. It started left, angling right (the crux), and then straight up to the PPBB hangers. I think it had one bolt protecting the move to the right and then 2 more higher up.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 23, 2008
By my recollection, this route was put in long (years) after PPBB was put in. It still is probably Salad Bar. BTW, what did you rate it?
Leo, you are right. The John Roskelly Show (as labeled on pic) is what we called Salad Bar. The route labeled "I" PVC is what we called The John Roskelly Show (a kind of uninteresting offwidth in a corner).
Flight 67 was originally called "Flight 67 to Stockholm" and Industrial Disease was called "Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers" though we never led the route.
Were you climbing there back then? With your brother?
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 24, 2008
Richard, thanks for the clarifications. It is interesting how names "change" or evolve over time. I think I went up there around the time of R&I article, but my brother mostly climbed ice back in CO then.
I did this by staying in the middle of the arete until the feet disappeared, then I moved left into the crack just as PPBB is veering off to the left. Jammed a few moves there then did a difficult move or two diagonally, then straight up from there to the anchors. If that was the intent of the line, then it's an okay route and actually has some very nice finger and thin hands moves combined with some devious face moves at crux. The way I did it, doesn't overlap PPBB.
Industrial Buttress
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