Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete 

The third bolt that protects the crux has a spinning hanger. This bolt should be inspected by the boys with the bosch to determine if it needs to be replaced. Great route.

Fairly continuous route, though the bolts are at your feet at the 2 cruxes. The moves are frog like. Being a neurologist I cannot resist the name of this route. From the same anchors, one can toprope Shadow of a Hangdog aka Fart Fingers to the right ( a sandbag at 10a/b) and Mandela aka Leaning Pillar to the left. There are 3 bolts trending right of the roof on "Shadow" leading to a 2 bolt anchor that is accesssible easily from the Brain Cloud anchors. This latter, somewhat contrived, route seems 11ish, and just left of the Stony Middleton corner. Therefore, we were able to TR 3 other routes, after leading Brain Cloud.

How long has that fake hand-hold been there? Somebody put some glue on this route.

Where is the fake hold? I climbed the route last week (after last climbing it five to seven years ago) and didn't notice anything like that. The route certainly doesn't need it. The moves are moderate and fun.

I think AC is referring to the obvious, inconsequential 6 inch wide white edge at the top of the pillar above the first bolt, before you arrive at the arete proper... looks like an accumulation of 100 years of bird shit. Try staying straight up the arete past the second and third bolt - the holds are a bit reachy, but the climbing is quality.

FIRST ASCENT 1992ish: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie.

Pre-bolts, this was a TR known as Shadow Arete.