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Industrial Buttress
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Nipple Phyle 

5.6

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 348 page views

Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Apr 4, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Industrial Buttress


Description 

This is the first crack to the right of the Johnny Roskelly Arete. Start up a wide, vertical, chimney-type crack, move up easier terrain, and then up the steeper and smaller crack. There are fun moves low, in the middle, and high.

To descend walk North-East to the first big gully.


Protection 

Gear to 2" and some RPs. Use small to medium cams for the anchor and belay from the top.

Alternatively, set a directional piece for your 2nd and use the Johnny Roskelly anchor bolts (use a long sling on the directional to prevent rope abrasion).



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By Doug Redosh
Apr 6, 2005
rating: 5.7

Crux move is halfway up, where the wall bulges a little. For me, the footholds on the left wall petered out, but the handhold that was right in front of your face when you start this sequence, functions nicely.