This is the first crack to the right of the Johnny Roskelly Arete. Start up a wide, vertical, chimney-type crack, move up easier terrain, and then up the steeper and smaller crack. There are fun moves low, in the middle, and high.
To descend walk North-East to the first big gully.
Protection
Gear to 2" and some RPs. Use small to medium cams for the anchor and belay from the top.
Alternatively, set a directional piece for your 2nd and use the Johnny Roskelly anchor bolts (use a long sling on the directional to prevent rope abrasion).
By Doug Redosh From: golden, CO Apr 6, 2005 rating: 5.7
Crux move is halfway up, where the wall bulges a little. For me, the footholds on the left wall petered out, but the handhold that was right in front of your face when you start this sequence, functions nicely.
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