This climb seems to involve devious powerful moves between large ledges. Start at an overhanging crack and reach up for a "thank god handhold". From this ledge, a very thin crack continues, but I was unable to get my fingers into this crack and it seems a bit over 5.8. If you move right a few feet, some devious moves will get you onto the next ledge at the grade.
The upper part of the route follows nice twin cracks, exiting using the left crack. There is no anchor on top, but if you belay from gear you can easily walk back down by walking east 50 feet to an easy gully. Alternatively, you can lower off the anchor for Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags, but this is somewhat awkward to reach.
Protection
Pro to 2.5" with emphasis on cams under 1". Closely-spaced 2 bolt anchor.
A great crack climb, but seemed way harder than 5.8. The thin crack George speaks of was too small for my fingers as well, and I fell a few times trying it. Then, it's pure fun though. I climbed Politicians etc. next and found it to be easier even the the grade suggests 2 grades harder.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 31, 2004 rating: 5.8+
This is a fabulous pitch, and would merit three stars even if it were in Eldorado. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top.
The easiest line starts in a crack to the right, then steps left to a good ledge. Place pro in the thin corner to the left, but climb to the right to keep the difficulty at 5.8+.
Near the end, you can angle up left to the anchor on "Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags" and lower, or layback up a hand crack to the right and belay from the top.
Pro: blue Alien to #2 Camalot; doubles on the #.75, #1, and #2 Camalots were useful.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Dec 1, 2007 rating: 5.8+
This is an excellent gear route in Golden Cliffs. We knocked it off just as the rains came today. Getting on the little shelf in the dihedral was probably the crux, but later there are some thoughtful sequences that you could just smear or take the time to work out. Pro is great the whole way. I concur with Ron's rating, too. A bit harder than other 5.8s at the crag.
Industrial Buttress
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