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Chicken Dance 

5.12a

   

FA: Dan Hare, 2002
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 336 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 7, 2002


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Description 

Early in 2002 or late in 2001 Dan Hare added a fine new line immediately to the right of Mrs. Hen Places a Peck. This route starts out in the seam and either slips left to the large hole or picks off a move or two on the right. Chase the slippery seam/crack to a good rest at 20 ft. In principle, a very thin (!) sequence follows with a good jug just out of reach. In February, Pat Burwick flashed the route using these tiny holds, however, there is a good hand to be found to the right and almost in the chimney and this hold could knock off some of the thin crimps. A large wing span will gain the jug from this edge. While this is a good route on solid stone, it will probably be done most often using a stem into the adjacent chimney for the first half of the route. Nontheless, it's clear that Dan's intent was to run the crack.


Protection 

Ten draws and a rope. Double bolt anchors exist at the top of Mrs. Hen and ten feet higher where a second double bolt anchor has been placed.



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By Ken Trout
Dec 21, 2007
rating: 5.12a

3-16-08, Mark Rolofson told me Dan Hare called this route Chicken Dance.

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2008

I thought hen was more pure, due to the fact that there's no stem possible. Plus the crux is more sustained.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed the thin move after the jug rest and topped out the same.

By John Langston
Apr 8, 2008

Shame to make a contrived line.