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Monkey Puzzle 

5.12c

   

FA: Alvino Pon??, 1994
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 904 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 9, 2002


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Greg Purnell solving the puzzle almost effortlessl...


Description 

Monkey Puzzle climbs the large overhang right of Puzzled Monkey and is the first route you pass on the way up to the Brown Cloud crags. A clean, vertical face gains a good stance below the roof. From this stance, a pair of large jugs sets up a cruxy move to the lip with the left hand - from here on out the puzzle begins. I had an opportunity to try and solve Monkey Puzzle with Pat Burwick and Greg Purnell, on separate occasions in February. While I thrashed away, the younger, smarter pair threw a heel hook on the left and swam over the roof. Monkey Puzzle is a fine problem that just begs to be misinterpreted: trying to overpower it will likely fail whereas solving the technical puzzle will let you pass on superb kinesthetic movement.


Protection 

Seven draws and a rope.



Photos of Monkey Puzzle Slideshow Add Photo
Puzzled Monkey and Monkey Puzzle.

BETA PHOTO: Puzzled Monkey and Monkey Puzzle.

Greg in the puzzle.

Greg in the puzzle.

Greg again.

Greg again.

Greg dusting it.

Greg dusting it.

Monkey Puzzle.  Puzzled Monkey is to the left, and Power and Lies is on a separate buttress to the right.

Monkey Puzzle. Puzzled Monkey is to the left, and...

Tim Caldwell working hard on the Monkey.

Tim Caldwell working hard on the Monkey.

Tim Caldwell fighting through 30-40 MPH winds on the puzzle.

Tim Caldwell fighting through 30-40 MPH winds on t...

Tim Caldwell with the high heel, right before the roof crux.

Tim Caldwell with the high heel, right before the ...

A climber working his way over the giant overhang high above Denver.

A climber working his way over the giant overhang ...


Comments on Monkey Puzzle Add Comment
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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 3, 2007
rating: 5.12a

I did this route in the winter as an after thought at the end of the day. I had been a little intimidated to try it given its short nature and grade, but upon getting on it I learned two things. This route is definitely not 12c, maybe 12a'ish. It is really 5.9 climbing to a V4 boulder problem. Two, over the lip there is a blatantly enhanced hold. Funny, I didn't even have to use this hold to make the move. And we figured other beta, a right heel under the roof works too. Not to say, this is a pretty fun route, so you should get on it. Don't be intimidated.

By martin tikusis
Dec 11, 2008

I felt this climb landed about 12b however the new guide goes as far as downgrading to 12a. Personally I thought it was harder than Golden Cliffs' Pseudo Bullet which the new guide has decided to upgrade from 12a to 12b. Hmmm just shows personal strengths and styles really differ when deciding grades.

By Beached Nuts
From: Bermuda bitches
Feb 1, 2009

The bolt has been replaced.

By Jay van Sam
From: Denver CO
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.12

Thanks to whoever put in the time and effort to make this climb safe again by replacing the bolt, we appreciate it.

And I agree, this a fun route. Decent face climbing up to a cool roof. I couldn't tell if the sidepull/undercling was drilled or not (assuming this is the hold Adam is refering to), but I ended up not using it either. Regardless, fun little route that delivers a pump, and a little sandbagged at .12a if you ask me, but you didn't.

By Luke Childers
From: Denver
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.12b

Nice line for Table Mt. I think a good 12b rating would do the trick for me. Worth giving a run for sure.