By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Jul 16, 2008
| On this route, I identified the line, placed the bolts, and led it first. Nonetheless, I certainly did not do it alone, nor any other climb for that matter. As we try to sort out accurate FA data for Mark Rolofoson's forthcoming guide to NTM, the FA data are important since this is something Mark has tried to be particularly fastidious about in all of his guides.
This brings up an important point of general significance. We commonly see FA reports that cite only a single climber, and unless the route was done solo this cannot be much of a reflection of the route's origin. I know that TA is right on in noting that he has not been cited on some climbs in the front range where this would be appropriate. Many of the ascents that Alan Nelson and I did together likewise show only a single FA climber. We should get this right. While a partner in a new ascent may not get the first red point, they may very well have contributed significantly and materially to the route's creation and can provide explicit verification as to the route's genesis. Furthermore, identifying the line, cleaning it, bolting it if that occurs, sorting out cruxes, belaying a partner, leading the route, supplying the gear, etc, etc, etc are all parts of the ascent in which the partner may be involved, and without these contributions the line would not exist. I know that I have been guilty of not always citing a key partner in a FA, an oversight mistake I won't make again. Perhaps it would be appropriate to always require more complete FA information when new routes do get posted. |