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Kevin Spies the Line 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,329
Submitted By: Ryan Farris on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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Peter Dillon at the steep headwall on Kevin Spies ...

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very good beginner climb. It goes slightly right, then left after the 2nd bolt. From there, follow the bolts straight up. It has large holds and big feet.

There is an alternate start to the right, ~5.9.

Eds. FWIW, this is not a great kid climb.

Protection 

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with Metolius rap bolt hangers.


Photos of Kevin Spies the Line Slideshow Add Photo
Dyan raging on KSTL.
Dyan raging on KSTL.
Kevin Spies the Line.  The climb is 5.6 to 5.8 depending on the line you take.
BETA PHOTO: Kevin Spies the Line. The climb is 5.6 to 5.8 dep...
Monika Cushman leading Kevin Spies the Line
Monika Cushman leading Kevin Spies the Line
Neide enjoying the climb.
Neide enjoying the climb.
Marc with left arm on the 5.7 slab start, and his right on the traditional 5.6 start.
Marc with left arm on the 5.7 slab start, and his ...

Comments on Kevin Spies the Line Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 15, 2002

Very nice easy route, you can make it about 5.7 by sticking tightly to the line of bolts, worth doing both ways since there are so few routes at this grade.
By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Dec 10, 2002

A good choice for an experienced climber to take fresh meat to. :) To keep yourself entertained there are three fun starts to the right of the bolts, two cracks and an edge. There are also two fun cracks with small roofs to the left 2/3 up the wall, just be ready for a bit of a swing. It's enough to entertain yourself while you help out your new climbers.
By Bruce Immele
Jan 10, 2004

My 1st Cliff lead. That first bolt is a bit high off the ground though you can climb right and then clip it before commiting. I would give the direct start a 5.7, not much for hand holds and the feet are small, with the cack tight for bigger feet. Great climb.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 4, 2004

I believe this climb should be under the "Table Top" area (Table Top is the next route left of it, no?).
By Todd Landrum
Jul 5, 2006

Directions: Once you hike to the top, head West along the face. You'll eventually come to a break in the cliff face (100 yards or so) where a scree field lets you scramble to the top. Kevin's is the last route just before this.

A nice beginner route for kids. The bottom portion is very easy boulder climbing and then it gets a little tougher towards the top. Some variation for more experienced climbers. Easy toprope to setup.

There's another decent kid's route one route to the right of this as well. No idea what it might be called.
By Ben Helgeson
From: Denver
Jan 26, 2008

The first couple of moves give the beginning leader something to commit to...after that, it's a fun cruise.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 5, 2010

I highly recommend protecting the moves to the first bolt with a 0.75" cam. At 5'9", I could barely reach the clip from the only stance before the crux moves. A fall from there would be a nasty grounder, too.
By Jack C Swift
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 12, 2010

That first bolt is tough to reach at 5'11". Committing first moves, make this much harder than 5.6. Easy cruising after the 2nd bolt. Not a great climb for little kids with such a nasty start (in my opinion). I will not bring my 5 year old back to this climb.
By ChefMattThaner
From: Lakewood, co
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I have so far taught 3 people to lead on this route and think it is an excellent route for beginning lead climbers. Well-protected and easy stances for all the bolts. The first bolt is the only weird one, but as long as you stem out with your right foot into the decent crack, even shorter climbers should be able to reach it.
By She's Such a B
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 17, 2013

As long as you stay to the left for the first move and stem or flag it, it is quite doable to reach the bolt, though maybe a little unnerving. I'm 5'4' and could reach it no issue (though I did have the benefit of climbing on top rope before leading it).