Every climbing area needs a high-quality handcrack, but not every area is so blessed. This Golden Cliffs classic is hidden away at the far left end of the cliff, but it is worth the hike with a rack of gear. Located on the right wall of the large dihedral of "Chimney Route", it splits the wall all the way to the rim at plus or minus hand size. For convenience, and to minimize the erosive impacts of walking off the top of the cliff, a two bolt anchor with rings was installed in 2001. The anchor is accessible from the top, so there's no excuse not to toprope it even if you left the cams in the car.
Protection
Medium to large cams to a two bolt anchor with rings.
well i guess for this crag this is a three star route, although ive climbed a couple better cracks here. Good way to avoid the crowds though. its actually kinda wide atthe top a 3.5 woulda worked, i only had a 3 and it was weak......try the 5.8 called bush loves detroit for a more fun climb....
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 3, 2003
A nice pitch, but not three stars. Bush Loves Detroit and Big Dihedral are better. It''s too easy to avoid jamming the crack by moving out to the left.
The Risk Area
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