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Mettle Detector 

5.11 R

   

FA: Alan Nelson
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 95 page views

Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 1, 2001


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Description 

This is another case of "reading between the lines", tackling a thin crack and flake system in between the ancient trad standards "Chimney Route" and "Handcrack". The crux is the initial corner, protected by as much metal as you can stuff into the thin fissure in the back. The "S" rating comes from the mid-section, where the rock and pro aren't as good, even as the moves stepping left aren't as difficult. The upper flake is a straightforward hike to the anchor rings (shared with "Handcrack"). As a lead it will test your placement skills, as a toprope it is just plain fun.


Protection 

Tiny wires to medium cams to a two bolt anchor with rings (shared with "Handcrack").



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By Jason Haas
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d

Nice additon to the area, although it protects just fine with nuts and small aliens - didn't use any RPs. Besides, that whole dihedral ends 10ft off the ground. This would probably only be 10c in Eldo