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Nouveau Reach aka Photo Art 

5.11b

   

FA: ?Alan Nelson, Spring 2001?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 244 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 1, 2001


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Description 

First bolted line left of Sunset Arete and one of four new lines in this area, this un-named Alan Nelson route begs the question: "Why didn't we do this before?" Fire up a thin tips-seam for four bolts just adjacent to Sunset Arete. Pull into a corner system for a casual cruise to the top. The real crux lies in finding some feet for the seam at the start. I thought that a good strong lay back using soft slippers gave sufficient friction to make this not harder than 5.11b, perhaps easier if you are tall. There may be some edges on the left, but gag, where? Fine addition by Das Routemeister. Good stone, well protected, fun moves. All we need are the babes (this part was so much easier previously???).


Protection 

QD only. This 60 ft route needs 8 to 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Jim Walsh
Apr 29, 2006

Very short crux with a perfect hole for your left big toe and a killer one-finger jam for the middle finger of your right hand. Fun.

By david johnson
Mar 20, 2008
rating: 5.11a

THis was first done on gear and named Photo Art. Retrobolts added later...

By Ken Trout
Jul 12, 2008

david, why on Earth would you quote Hubble's guide as some kind of authority? Hubble has always named cracks that were never climbed. His first book to the Platte was called The Brown Book of Lies. No FA parties are listed usually.

Please remove your comments about Alan. He died three months ago. Your presenting yourself as a guy who likes to kick people when they're down.

By Jason Haas
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 13, 2008

Not to take sides on the issue, but for historical accuracy, this was actually first done by Jeff Brown in 1988 and called Jeff's Third Climb. If you can manage to find a copy, you can refer to Berk's 1990 guidebook to Table Mountain called "You Are Welcome to Walk: Free Climbs of North Table Mountain, Colorado".