Alan's Seam is a temporary name used until the routes in this sector have been named by him. Immediately West of the large boulder that defines the beginning of this area is a short, wide, trad crack (presently shares its anchor with Alan's Seam) right of Alan's Seam. The seam fires up on cool moves half within and half outside of a shallow left angling seam. Gain a small roof with a Hands -+ crack on its left. Pull over the roof and into the crack for a brief but enjoyable crux, than chase some easy terrain to the anchor on the left-facing wall above. Two stars for perfect stone, fun and thoughtful moves that are well-protected.
Protection
QD only. This 60 ft route needs 7 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Anybody (Alan, Richard?) know what the three climbs to the left of Alan's Seam are? There is a 4-5 (?) bolt arete on the far left (with BAD anchors)-feels 8ish, then two climbs that share anchors: 3-4 bolt stair-steppish climb (maybe 7), then very thin face with 4 bolts. Names? Ratings? Just wondering.
We will have to get the final word from Alan himself on the routes mentioned by Scott. Alan put these all up in the Spring and Summer of 2001, and he has the names and ratings. I have climbed all of them, with some mixed opinions. These lines fill in some spaces but won't capture the imagination the way Anarchitect or Ten Digit Dialing will.
Of course; by no means are these climbs great routes. CC holds a plethora of better climbing. But on those warm winter days, I enjoy the fact that I can be on the rock in 20 minutes for a quick after-school jaunt!
The three routes that I mentioned are older than Alan's newbies. The only worthwhile climb is the arete, course with the old worn-through cold shuts up top, its prolly not a good idea to climb.
My favorite warm up at table. Fun moves through the seam and an interesting sequence to gain the bulge at the top. Kind of awkward to TR from the anchors on the far wall, but not bad enough to warrant separate hangers. Nice route.
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado Apr 25, 2006 rating: 5.9+
The top anchors for this climb are in a terrible location. This is a sloping climb - the majority of the holds slope towards downhill, making it a bit spicier.
I thought this climb was harder than Resident Bush by far! Didn't even get to the 3rd bolt on TR! I admit to being weak and getting older but this crack could easily be rated 5.10b/c. Good clips and Anchor in Great shape when this was posted.
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