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MBA Buttress
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Adrenalyzer 
Bad Manners 
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete 
Brain Dead Ted 
Broken Arrow 
Cliff Hanger 
Dan's Line 
Dan's Manners 
Fat Fingers (aka Shadow of a Hangdog) 
Fatal Attraction 
Feeding Frenzy 
Good Man Dan 
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack 
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) 
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar 
Mini Me 
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters 
Sick Minds Think Alike 
Spike 
Stoney Middleton 
Table Manners 
Twenty Something Arete 
Unknown bolt line 
Unknown just right of Good Man Dan 
Unknown left of Good Man Dan 
Wazup? 

Broken Arrow 

5.11

   

FA: Dan Hare, Claire Mearns, 2000
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 280 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2001


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Placing some small cams to get to the first bolt.....


Description 

Climb just right of Fat Fingers (aka Shadow of a Hangdog), following the bolt line just left of the dihedral with the large crack. Follow a thin crack up and right to a small roof. Clip, then make a sweet dynamic move to a good hold. It's unclear whether the route uses the opposite face to stem off of; we did.


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Micro cams or small stoppers would be a good idea for the lower half of the route.



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By outdooreric
Feb 10, 2008

This description is a little misleading. The route starts out as a crack climb for the first 25 feet at least. Gear is required! When the climb gets steeper at the top, there are three closely spaced bolts. The bolted line is a bit contrived to me; following the strength of the rock rather than the obvious weakness. It seemed much easier to move right and join "Stony Middleton" rather than climb a few desperate face moves out of character with the rest of the route.

By Laura Pyle
May 24, 2009

I thought it was a nice route. If you traverse slightly right, but not all the way to Stony Middleton, the line is pretty aesthetic.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jan 5, 2010

This would be 3 stars if the other wall wasn't there. It's annoying trying to avoid the stem. But there are really fun, well protected moves....

And you don't need anything bigger than a purple Camalot (and I don't mean #5).