Start on the left end of a face, just below a bulge. Clip the first bolt, move up the cracked face and then to the crack. From the ledge, make a committing move up to a nice hand hold before clipping the 5th bolt.
Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #1-1.5 Friend is useful for between the 3rd and 4th bolts, and a #2 Friend is good for protecting just below the 5th.
Richard - Agreed. The guy who led this climb, (currently working a 5.13 on redpoint so no slouch), is about 510" and stood on that ledge for a good while before we found someone that we could borrow a cam from and send it up. A fall there would be nasty.
In all due respect to the founder of this web page, Myke K., I must raise objections and warnings about this route. While the climbing is okay, the anchor system and the bolting are not up to par. Bring a steady mind or some trad gear for the middle section of this route. This is fine and not harder than 5.6. However, the anchor was placed on a fully undercut and detached block; stable for now, but for how long? In addition, if you are under 5 ft 10 inches in height, you can add another number to the grade and a poorly protected move to the anchor. The simple solution is to drop the anchor for convenient clipping from the top of ledge that marks the end of any reasonable climbing, about four feet lower than it is. This project is on the docket and I hope we get done this spring (2001). However, be forewarned before you run up this route.
The observations about the gear are now obsolete. We just climbed it this weekend and were happy to find the top anchors lowered and the scary clip from the upper ledge now an easy reach. While my memory may be faulty, it seems like something was sorted out lower on the route as well. The route is much safer.
By David Houston From: Boulder, Colorado Jan 17, 2003
Your memory is right: There was another bolt added to cover the runout on the middle face. Great route, personally, I think the crux is the final move off the ledge to the anchors!
Fun at the start and at the top, but fairly easy climbing in between. We spent the whole morning on the wrong routes (no pictures) and guessed this was a 5.8+, but I think that is because we were on Mrs. Hen earlier, and thought it was a really sandbagged 10c, so I will forego grading this climb.
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