Henry Spies the Line 

In all due respect to the founder of this web page, Myke K., I must raise objections and warnings about this route. While the climbing is okay, the anchor system and the bolting are not up to par. Bring a steady mind or some trad gear for the middle section of this route. This is fine and not harder than 5.6. However, the anchor was placed on a fully undercut and detached block; stable for now, but for how long? In addition, if you are under 5 ft 10 inches in height, you can add another number to the grade and a poorly protected move to the anchor. The simple solution is to drop the anchor for convenient clipping from the top of ledge that marks the end of any reasonable climbing, about four feet lower than it is. This project is on the docket and I hope we get done this spring (2001). However, be forewarned before you run up this route.

Richard - Agreed. The guy who led this climb, (currently working a 5.13 on redpoint so no slouch), is about 510" and stood on that ledge for a good while before we found someone that we could borrow a cam from and send it up. A fall there would be nasty.

The observations about the gear are now obsolete. We just climbed it this weekend and were happy to find the top anchors lowered and the scary clip from the upper ledge now an easy reach. While my memory may be faulty, it seems like something was sorted out lower on the route as well. The route is much safer.

Your memory is right: There was another bolt added to cover the runout on the middle face. Great route, personally, I think the crux is the final move off the ledge to the anchors!