Follow the crack that runs up and right, just right of Killian's Dead and Deck Chairs. Try to use only the crack at the top (crux), and not bail out to the dihedral corner on the right.
Protection
Smaller cams, stoppers. We used a 20 ft sling thrown around a huge block.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 12, 2003 rating: 5.6
Pretty decent trad lead for a beginner. It looked like it would be hard to mess up the cam placements int he gradually widening crack that starts half way up. Hexes would also work.Actual grade should be 5.6, stars- 1.
Not bad, but not good either. What can you say about a 30 foot line? It had good jams and nice pro- but you can sew it up on 4 placements.
Uh, no harder than the line to the left rated 5.6.
Stay in the crack up top, it's closer to grade. IMO a very enjoyable climb. Big dihedral is harder and is a solid 5.8 so if you danced right up JAAA and wanna get some other 8's, heads up for the Big D. Both worth doing.
I second what Tony said in a previous statement, that John Adams' is no harder than Killian's Dead. We tried something a bit different and climbed the face after the hand/fist crack ran out.
This was my first on sight trad lead. It’s not in any hard but a little interesting because the good placements don’t start until about a third of the way up. I think I used cams from .5 - 3.5. The crack goes from tight hands to fist (for me), nice variety. The top is kind of lame but what are you gonna do?
If you start at the groove just right of the "15" in the beta photo and climb directly to the crack, you can make the climb go at 5.8. Starting in the Killian's chimney corner will negate this boulder problem start bringing the grade down. Bring pro to 3 inches.
Brown Cloud Rocks
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