Our interpretation is that you climb up the face to the roof at which point you swing out onto the arete and reach way up (crux) for a good hold. Finish by coming back toward the center of the face.
Protection
Set up an anchor that reduces the pendulum potential as much as possible. You'll need some #2 Friends, a #1 Friend, stoppers, or the like plus some 5ft slings and runners for equalization. ;-) It looks like someone has drilled holes for bolts, but hasn't put them in yet. Eds. there are now 4 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. For someone with the expertise, the right anchor bolt still needs some attention. You can pull it out about 1/2".
Photo
To the right of the climber in the photo to the right is the route.
If this is the route just right of the Big Dihedral, and I think it is, then I have some news. The route has been bolted, badly, not only should this be a trad route but one of anchor bolts is in very bad shape. It's totally loose. I don't know too much about bolts, but I would assume that the nut should not be adjustable by girlie fingers. I started tightening it but that only made the bolt come out further, and I'm guessing that is a bad thing. Somebody who knows what they are doing should come fix this so as to prevent injury and/or death.
Brown Cloud Rocks
RSS Feed
