In the Spring of 2001, Alan Nelson added about a dozen or so lines in this area. Most of the climbs are under 70 ft in length, and most of these are moderate in difficulty falling within the range of 5.7 to 5.10. Presently there is a rough 50:50 split between trad and bolted routes, so if you are looking for several fine 5.8/5.9 trad pitches, this is a great spot. The rock quality is overall very good and the bolting generous. The trad pitches mostly have double-bolt lowering stations, sometimes shared with an adjacent bolted line. Good sun and fun climbing to be had in this new area.
Routes from L->R:
A. Little Ox, 5.9, bolts; arete just before gap. B. Oxymoron, 5.6, trad; crack between A & C. C. Big O Flyer, 5.8, bolts; stepped face with big ledges. D. Line It Up, 5.7, trad; crack between C & E. E. X It, 5.9, bolts; slab to small, LF roof. F. Startled, 5.8 or 5.10-, bolts; buttress right of E. G. Liar Liar, 5.8+, trad; slab to crack to RFD. H. Resident Bush, 5.9 or 5.10-, bolts; bush L of 1st bolt. I. Traditions, 5.9, trad; crack R of H. J. Chopless, 5.8, trad; RFDs near I. K. Corn Flake, 5.8s, trad; cracks and flakes near J. L. BM Route, 5.9, bolts; "BM" on rock right. M. Tootsie Roll, 5.8, bolts; buttress left of N. N. Under the Table, 5.11, bolts; smooth, tan slab. O. Alan's Seam, 5.10- 5 bolts; angling crack L of P. P. Meat is Murder aka Squeezing It In, 5.8 trad; crack left of Mind Mantle Arete Q. Mindless, V-easy.
Just follow the trail west to the Mind Mantle Arete and the detached boulder at its base. The climbing starts just to the west of the arete/boulder and continues west to the wash that provides an easy approach to the top.
This is a great trad crack line with a really cool lieback on the upper half. Start in a crack on a slab between "Startled" and "Resident Bush". Head straight up the cracks as the wall gets steep, then feed into a clean, shallow right-facing corner that ends at a pair of bolts for a convenient toprope or lower-off. If you didn't bring gear, it's worth hiking round the top and reaching over the edge to rig a toprope.Addendum: there is ...[more]
My brother, friends, and I climbed a ton of gear routes here in the late 80s, especially in the 7 to 10 range. I would think it is a bit sketchy claiming an FA on a mid-range gear route at Table Top these days.
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