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Overhang Area

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Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route 
Beer Barrel Buttress 
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers 
Chicken Dance 
Corniche 
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The 
Ground Doesn't Lie, The 
Handle This Hard On! 
Here Today Gone Tomorrow 
In Between the Lines 
Intuition 
Mr. Peery Take A Bow 
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut 
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck 
Natural Fact 
Off Line 
Pack 'o Bobs 
Plumber's Crack, The 
Sidelines 
Smear Me A Beer 
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim 
Toast & Jam 
Tora, Tora, Tora 
War With A Rack 
Wholly Holey 

Overhang Area


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Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
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Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.


Description 

Right where the approach trail ends. Probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.


Getting There 

Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.


L->R: 

A. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
B. Toast & Jam, 7+, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
C. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
D. face, 9?, 1p, TR.
E. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, bolts.
F. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
G. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, gear.
H. Sidelines, 10-, 1p, bolts.
I. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, bolts.
J. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, gear.
K. Off Line, 8, 1p, bolts.
L. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
M. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
N. 11+ or 12-, 1p, bolts.
O. 10, 1p, bolts.
P. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
Q. route
R. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, gear.
S. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
T. 11+, 1p, bolts.
U. 10- or 11, 1p, bolts.
V. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X. Hell Raiser, 9,
Y. 8,
Z. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
AA. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
BB. Hellbound, 11, 9+/10-, 1p.
CC. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
DD. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
EE. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 11-, 1p, bolts.
FF. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Routes, 7+, 1p, bolts.
GG. Pack O' Bobs, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
HH. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
II. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Overhang Area:
Corniche   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   
Off Line   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch   
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Sidelines   5.10a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Mr. Peery Take A Bow   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Tora, Tora, Tora   5.11b/c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut   5.11c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Handle This Hard On!   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Overhang Area

Photos of Overhang Area Slideshow Add Photo

BETA PHOTO
Sun setting on the rocks.

Sun setting on the rocks.

Photo: Dave Fiorucci

Photo: Dave Fiorucci

Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cliffs. See my comment below for details of what to buy if you want to help solve the problem of worn anchors. The quick links and hooks can go on Fixe rings too. Just clip in and lower. Much thicker than "fixed" carabiners and easy to replace.

Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cl...

A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Green x means bolts that are new since then, on just the routes shown.

A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Gree...

#1 Shows the simple set-up that is bomber and easily replaced without removing the bolt. <br /><br />#2 Shows the problem. Sure a single rap hanger is cheaper, but what about the future? Removing bolts weakens them. I've broken several unscrewing them. <br /><br />#3 How anyone can fix a worn rap hanger. The fatter, stronger, quick links in #1 are a tight fit.

#1 Shows the simple set-up that is bomber an...


Comments on Overhang Area Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2002

46, whatever it is called is sick. stay on the skinny face and rush it.

By Brian Schoep
Apr 18, 2005

Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the overhang area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is I would love the info. Thanks.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2005

Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8.

By Buff Johnson
From: Coniferous, CO
Aug 14, 2006

There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. Crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2007

We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.

Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:

1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.

3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Dec 10, 2007

Ken,

I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.

Thanks again,

Mike

Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike